Need more depth? Start painting in large panels of lowlights (you may need a separate formula for this if the ends are particularly porous).Start feathering the color through the midshalf, making sure to bring it down and begin feathering it into the pre lightened ends.Depending on your desired end result, pick a color close to the client’s natural level or even 2 levels darker.But avoid a rookie mistake: If you don’t feather the color far enough down through the midshaft, your client will just have a halo through the top and that’s not too much different than smudging. The whole point of it is to create depth and melt an artificial root color into the pre-existing color (ie. Very smily put: A root melt starts out very similar to a single process application, but then it’s feathered into the midshaft and oftentimes it is paired with a good amount of lowlights. When a Root Smudge isn’t enough to get the job done, bring in the big guns and do a Root Melt. ro͞ot melt/: Also Called a “Root Stretch” or “Reverse Balayage” My average root smudge sits on for 10 minutes because that’s how I book my appointments. Process accordingly: No less than 5 minutes, no more that 20.Use a wide tooth comb to pull through ever so slightly and diffuse the color (warning: if you use a fine tooth comb it’s going to drag the color down too far and become blotchy).“Dab on” the color with a stiff color brush, a bottle applicator, or even just your finger right at her root.Towel dry your client and detangle her at the shampoo bowl.Pick a color close to the client’s natural level, think of it like “adding back” her root color: if she’s a 7, I’m picking a 7N (or 7NA of I want ashy, 7NG if I want warmth, etc).Translation: If you are having a hard time with balayage, foilyage, or traditional foils looking too “stripe-y”, a root smudge can save your bacon!Īfter the highlight technique of your choice processes fully, shampoo your client and mix up a root smudge. ro͞ot sməj/: Also Called a “Shadow Root”Ī root smudge is the perfect technique to slightly “buff away” telltale foil lines at the root or a balayage application that wasn’t feathered enough at the base. The only exception for me is if I’m concerned about exposing underlying pigment, then I will pick a Semi. For what it’s worth: I’m usually opting for Demi because it gives more longevity. Why not permanent? Well, permanent color puts more stress on the hair, so if this is previously lightened hair (which 9 time out of 10 it is) permanent color wouldn’t be the most ideal choice for the overall integrity of the hair. Since all of these techniques are about depositing depth into the hair, limit your product choices to just Semi permanent or Demi permanent color. Before we dive in, I want to talk about product.
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